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Sport Climbling is set to make its debut at the Tokyo Olympics. It will be the first time ever that a climbing competition will be held at the Summer Games.
Climbling is a lesser known sport in India but it is quite popular in a majority of countries. However, climbing is primarily considered a niche sport. A group of fellow climbers look at the rock wall as a place where they find solitude and camaraderie. The goal is simple - to find the best route to get to the top.
The notion of climbing as a niche sport is soon set to change as it makes its debut at the Tokyo Olympics.
Acclaimed American Olympic climber Nathaniel Coleman told the Associated Press:
"For the most part, people were psyched. They knew the sport would get more attention, a lot more inflow of money and kind of be recognized as the high-quality sport that it is."
Three disciplines of Climbing to feature during the Tokyo Olympics
A total of three disciplines will be part of the Climbing competition at the Tokyo Olympics. These disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
Lead climbing is akin to what climbers encounter when they are scaling rock faces outdoors. In the lead competition, climbers get six minutes to scale a wall of around 15 meters. Climbers are allowed to use a variety of holds.
Deciding the winner is easy - whoever climbs the highest wins. In case of a tie, the winner is decided on the basis of time.
Meanwhile, in Bouldering, climbers get four minutes to complete each of the four so-called "problems" on 4.5-meter walls. Examples of these problems are wedges, overhangs, and holds that are barely big enough for holding a fingertip.
Some problems also involve a "dyno." The challenging format requires the climber to jump to the next hold with a dynamic movement.
Climbers are eligible for as many attempts as possible within the prescribed time limit. Credits are awarded upon completing a boulder by securing the top hold with both hands. Zone holds midway up the wall also allow the climbers to earn partial credit points.
The decision to include the third and final format - speed climbing - did not go down too well with seasoned climbers. Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics is set to have two gold medallists - one of each gender.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) wanted climbers to showcase a range of skills, and hence decided to include speed climbing at the Tokyo Olympics as well.
While many climbers are familiar with lead climbing and bouldering, not all practice speed climbing too much as it is a much more specialized discipline. Speed climbing involves racing head-to-head up a 15-meter wall using standardized holds.
Speaking on the matter, Assistant coach at USA Climbing Meg Coyne said:
"Speed climbing is very, very different from the other two disciplines. First of all, it’s rehearsed. Second, all of the mannerisms, habits and techniques are effectively reversed. For athletes to do well on speed, they need train for something that’s totally outside the habits they have for the other disciplines."
How will sport climbing be scored at the Tokyo Olympics?
Scores in sport climbing will be calculated by multiplying each climber's placement in each of the three disciplines. The one with the lowest score will win.
For example - if a climber finishes 2nd in lead, 1st in bouldering and 7th in speed, their score would be (2x1x7 = 14). It is therefore clear that winning a discipline is set to place a climber in a good position for a medal.
Who are the climbers to watch out for?
Currently, Adam Ondra of Czech Republic is considered the world’s best climber. The 28-year-old will be one of the favorites in both bouldering and lead at the Tokyo Olympics. Slovenian rock climber Janja Garnbret will be amongst the favorites in the women's competition.
Other climbers to watch out for at the quadrennial spectacle include Japan's Miho Nonaka, France's brother duo of Mickael and Bassa Mawem, and Britain's Shauna Coxsey.
A total of 40 quota spots are available for Sport climbing at the Tokyo Olympics. Every country's National Olympic Committee is eligible to obtain a maximum of two spots in each event.
The qualification rounds of Climbing for the Tokyo Olympics will take place on August 3rd & 4th, while the Finals will happen on August 5th & 6th.
