Who is Phoebe Philo? Racist controversy mars new brand launch as viral Iman video resurfaces online

British fashion designer Phoebe Philo launched her eponymous brand on October 30, as reported by Elle. In fact, fashion enthusiasts who registered for her brand launch in July 2023 received a notification saying “phoebephilo.com is open,” as per the news outlet.

While the fans of Phoebe Philo are rejoicing in her eponymous brand launch, an old video of Somali-American model-actress Iman has resurfaced online in which she accuses Philo of racism.

The footage dates back to 2022 in which Iman called out Phoebe Philo for racial discrimination on the Sway's Universe podcast. Iman said that Philo asked during her time at Celine whether she would be “forced to use black models?”

The old clipping re-emerged online last month, and since then Phoebe Philo’s brand launch has faced controversy.

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Phoebe Philo was the creative director at Chloe between 2001 and 2006

Now 50 years old, French-born British fashion designer Phoebe Philo became interested in customizing her clothes at the age of 15 when she received a sewing machine as a birthday gift from her parents. Following this, she attended London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and graduated in 1996, as per Elle.

The next year, she joined the Parisian ready-to-wear brand Chloe as the design assistant of English fashion designer Stella McCartney, who was then the company’s creative director. Phoebe Philo was so successful that when McCartney retired in 2001, she succeeded her as the creative director, a role in which she served until 2006.

After a year-long hiatus, Philo joined as the creative director of French Maison Celine but worked from London. As per Elle, she “resuscitated” and “revolutionized” the brand with “her chic, minimalist aesthetic.” After working at Celine for nearly a decade, in 2018, Phoebe exited the company after launching its Pre-Fall collection.

Fast forward to 2021, Philo announced that she would launch a brand under her own name, which finally happened on October 30, 2023.

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Exploring the Phoebe Philo racism controversy amid her new brand launch

In the wake of Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand launch, model Iman’s allegation in a 2022 Sway’s Universe podcast claiming that Philo was racist, has resurfaced on the internet. Iman said:

“One of the designers was a woman called Philo, who did Celine…And so Philo said, ‘Am I gonna be forced to use black models?’ She has never used black models…I said no, there’s gonna be a right black model for you.”

Iman also continued by mentioning that because of Phoebe’s racist comment, she chose never to buy a Celine bag herself.

“She [Philo] has the right to her runway, and I have the right to my pocketbook,” noted Iman.

As per Refinery 29, her 2022 podcast was a reiteration of her 2013 interview with the Evening Standard. In it, she slammed Celine while talking about her Diversity Coalition venture and said it was perhaps the most racially biased brand. She even said that there were more black models on the catwalk when she began working in the 1970s than in 2013.

“The absence of models of color sends a message to our young girls that they are not good enough, they are not beautiful enough. Photography and the runways are such powerful tools, and say such a lot about our society. It is so much bigger than the catwalk,” Philo noted.

Her fellow model-activist Bethann Hardison even went on record to say:

“Phoebe Philo – she’s a cool girl. But Celine has never had a colored person showing in their collection. Ever. And yet they have the best accessories; every black woman who has money buys her accessories.”

Now, amid the Phoebe Philo brand launch, the racial accusations have once again stirred up controversy.

So far, Philo has not responded to the backlash. As for her brand, it has unveiled over 100 pieces including leather outerwear, oversized suiting, delicate silk draping, and chunky knitwear among others, as per Elle reports.

There were also accessories such as high collar heels, cavernous suede holdalls, seventies sunglasses, and the most hit ‘MUM’ emblazoned necklace which was sold out within 30 minutes of the launch, reported the media source.

Elle also reported that unlike most fashion brands, Philo will have thrice a year collections, called A1, A2, and A3. The brand backed by LVMH has earned mixed reviews so far. While some lauded its unique designs, others critiqued its overpriced collection.